Perfect picture frames with a DIY Miter Sled

Perfect picture frames with a DIY Miter Sled

Welcome to The Every Maker, my name is Nick
and today we’re gettin’ Jiggy with some miter cuts This is my cross-cut sled, I use it all the
time to make perfect 90 degree cuts because I dont’ have a miter saw. It runs along these miter slots in the table
saw, moving perfectly parallel with the blade. In order to make a miter sled, I need to start
with some table saw runners that will fit nice and snug into those slots, but still
allow enough movement for them to slide. I used a piece of scrap hickory since it’s
a nice hardwood and would stand up to the abuse. I kept adjusting the fence, just grazing the
piece of wood with the blade, until I had a perfect fit with no side to side movement
whatsoever. I cut a few extra pieces so that I would have
them the next time I needed to build a sled, but for this project, I just need two. One last cut on the saw and the runners would
be the perfect size, this cut making sure that they were just shorter than the depth of the
miter slots. Finally, I drilled a few holes to allow the
runners to be screwed to the sled. I used a countersink bit to make sure the
heads of the screws would be below the level of the runner, that way they didn’t bottom
out in that miter slot. On to the body of the sled. I start by marking a center point, using the
tape measure at an angle allows me to line up to the nearest whole number, divide by
two, and that’s my center point. Sure beats trying to find out what the middle of 30 and
3/16” of an inch is. I extend the center line, then use my speed
square to get a my 45” angles drawn on both sides. Now Ihave my board marked and ready to go. I left a little bit on either side so that
Ihave some support when I go to cut my miters, that way they will line up and I will have
a perfect 45 degree cut right down the middle. I started trimming the board down to size,
stopping briefly to adjust the height of the blade. Then I cut a strip to use as the fence. Once I had my miter gauge set to 45 degrees,
I cut the strip in half to give me both sides of the fence. Now that all the pieces are cut out, it’s
time to put it all together. I added a few washers in each slot to raise
the runners above the level of the table. Making sure that both of the runners were
lined up with the front of the table and the right side up. Then used a little bit of super glue on both
table runners and line up the square edge of the miter board with the fence and carefully
lay it down on my runners. Then you just need to weight it down with
something heavy. You can also use cans of paint. The glue is only there to hold temporarily,
the real holding power will be done with screws. I used a Sharpie to mark the inside edges
of the miter slots so that when I run my miter sled back and forth a few times, it will leave
black marks anywhere the runners were really rubbing against the side wall. Then used a mini bullnose plane to take off
the high spots, but you can also just use sandpaper
In order for the sled to slide smoothly across the table saw, I applied a thick coat of paste
wax. After it dried, I buffed it out to give a
nice slick surface. To get the fence lined up properly, I first
cut a kerf into the board, so that I could line up the first board using my speed square,
just overlapping that kerf, I held it down temporarily with superglue, followed by screws,
once the glue had set. For the second side, I used a square at the
front edge of the fence, to make sure that second board was placed exactly 90 from the
first. It doesn’t really matter too much if the
first board isn’t perfectly 45 degrees from the blade, as long as both sides of the fence
are exactly 90 degrees from each other. Then it was time to test. I cut a small piece off the end to use as
a stop block. Then I switch sides and cut 45 degrees on
the other side. Swapping sides like this makes sure that even
if the fences aren’t exaclty 45 degrees to the blade, they are 90 degrees to each
other and will give you perfect miters every single time. I repeat this process for all 4 sides, making
sure to reference the same side of the board each time. I slightly misjudged the length of my board
and had to go back and trim up all the pieces so they were the same length. But once it was assembled, I had a perfect
square and no gaps. I needed to be able to cut 45 degree angles,
and my miter gauge on my saw just was not working for that. So I built this out of just some scrap wood
and it gave me the perfect 45 degree cuts that I need. When I made my little test piece, I got a
little bit of a line there from the superglue, but no gaps whatsoever. This came out, just fantastic. And I added these little quick toggle clamps
to hold the piece flat down up here by the blade, that way you get a nice cut and also
helps keep it from moving around. If you liked this project, go ahead and hit
that like button down below and leave me a comment and let me know what you thought. If you want to see the project that I made
this for, go ahead and hit that subscribe button and stick around and I’ll see you guys
again real soon.

Dereck Turner

9 thoughts on “Perfect picture frames with a DIY Miter Sled

  1. Woody120 says:

    Good job bro!
    Going to have to make one of those soon

  2. Melissa Bruce says:

    Awesome stuff Nick!

  3. Paul mate says:

    Unlike Ur video plz make more videos

  4. Know What Mom Knows says:

    whoot whoot episode 2!!!! you have a friendly way of talking to your viewers!!! This was fun AND Educational to watch…WHOOT WHOOT

  5. Margaritis Takis Kailos says:

    perfect miters every time! great jig!

  6. Heyward Shepherd says:

    Why don’t you just divid by two on the first measure. By raising the tape it becomes an hypotenuse which is longer the the base of the right triangle. You lost me.

  7. Heyward Shepherd says:

    Never mind I just figured it out. D’oh!

  8. Chuck Holton says:


  9. Jason Hamlin says:

    Exactly what I was looking for. Thank You for taking the time to make this video. Jason…

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