Mitred Picture Frame

Mitred Picture Frame

Hi there, Walker from Timber Tone here; welcome to the workshop In this video I make some simple picture frames
with off-cuts saved from the firewood pile The timber looks like spotted gum and was
already close to finished dimension But with a hole in one board and some dressing
to do, I wasn’t sure how much wood I’d end up with;
so initially, I allowed for one frame only. And I’m using an off-shelf frame for convenience,
to quickly source all the components. So let’s get started Because there wasn’t much timber to spare I opted to skip the jointer and go straight
to the thicknesser. Using the weathered side as the initial reference
will minimise how much material gets dressed off this face
and as the boards only have slight bows I can work around this once they’re ripped
and cut to size. So with the first face planed true, the weathered
side can now get a cleanup And by taking light passes, minimal material
can be removed to ensure a good finish and maximum yield. Cleaned up pretty well I’d say; nice flat
faces and a great figure. Now to joint the edges Again only the bare minimum was removed, meaning there were still some slight defects on the
boards however, this will be fine to run against
the table saw fence and those defects will get dressed off later The saw gets setup to suit the board thickness and it was at this point I was able
to determine exactly how much material I had to work with The yield resulted in two 32mm pieces per board; which was bang on what I was chasing. The boards are ripped to separate the first
piece and then the waste is cut off from the second The ripping leaves saw marks along the edges of the boards but these can be quickly removed
by a handplane Spotted gum typically has an interlocking
grain so a sharp, low angle plane is used to minimise tearout And so with the pieces cleaned up the router can now be set for the edging I’m going for a recessed bullnose on both edges of the frame’s front perimeter And these will be cut first to provide better work holding as they are machined I’ll also be using the fence for these edges. While this isn’t essential for bearing type
cutters, it just makes the whole process a lot easier and safer Once the bullnoses are on, the router can be refitted to cut the rebate on the rear of the frames So firstly, the zero point of the cutter is
found, the DRO reset and cutter raised to required height. In this case a 5mm rebate will be perfect
to accept the glass, picture & backing. And that’s it. All the edges are on and we can start cutting
these sticks down For the initial cut I just use the mitre gauge
on the saw which honestly isn’t all that accurate. It’s about two degrees off, but that’s
something taken care of shortly using a shooting board to true up the edges And a bench hook on the shooting board ensures a secure in the vice. The 90 degree wedge can come out and some paraffin wax from a white candle is used to lubricate the run Each piece is sat against the wedge which acts like a fence And then using a low angle plane, fine shavings are taken from the end grain; right down to
the exact measurement A perfect fit With everything shot to size and bundled, I like to make one final check before moving on. A layout of the pieces confirms that everything
is good and it’s time to glue up I’m going to be using titebond III for this
glue-up. Mainly for the strength but the longer working
time is also good. As these will be end to end-grain joins, I’m
going to size the glued faces This is done by applying a mix of glue, thinned with water, prior to applying the neat glue for joining The sizing minimises how much glue the end-grain can take up to ensure the joint isn’t starved during curing Once the pieces have had several minutes to
go off, they can be positioned ready for gluing. I’m using a band clamp to bring the joints
together uniformly But the height, together with the shoulder
on the front of the frame, caused me a bit of grief while trying to cramp it all together
So for the next two, I used some scrap ply to raise the job to the centre of the clamp
And this worked great. Once the clamp is tight a quick adjustment
on the corners ensures they’re sitting flush the excess glue can be wiped away with a damp
rag and the corners are checked to ensure everything
is square. All set End grain mitres are one of the weakest joints that can be made, so to help reinforce the corners I’m going to be adding some splines. These are small slithers of material glued
across the mitre to add structural support And I’ve decided to use Tasmanian Oak as the timber, to add a bit of contrast to the Spotted Gum The blanks are ripped close to size on the bandsaw, and then cleaned up with a handplane
to the final dimension To assist with planing I’m using double sided tape to hold the piece onto on some scrap ply in the vice and I reckon I got stitched up with this roll, as it always seems to take forever to get
the backing off. Finally! The piece is around 3mm thick and a quick check of the grain direction helps position the piece for planing Once at the correct dimension, the strip can be carefully separated from the ply with a chisel And the tape then pulled from the back The strip can now be tested in the corner’s recess; to ensure a nice fit before cutting into blanks. A slightly sloppy fit is good. When glued, the pieces swell and their fragility
limits how forcefully they can be inserted An old oil dripper is used to get glue right
into the recess for the spline. When the joint is filled, the spline can be
pushed home and held in place with blue tape With the joint cured the excess gets cut off then planed flush with the frame using a block plane. And the final finishing can now start Some edges of the frame sit slightly proud, so these get cleaned up with a sharp chisel. Then the corners are checked and that any aren’t completely flush are cleaned up with scrapers and planes So with everything ready for finish and fit off, I’ll let the montage do the talking Thanks for watching
I’ll be posting periodic videos of timber inspired projects so please hit that subscribe
button. See ya later.

Dereck Turner

1 thought on “Mitred Picture Frame

  1. Michael M says:

    Well done mate!

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