How To Put Trim Up – Installing Baseboard Molding

How To Put Trim Up – Installing Baseboard Molding

thanks for checking out our video today
we’re going to show you how to turn these three basic trim profiles into a
stunning three piece base molding so we’re starting here with the one by
four trend stock we’re gonna transfer our measurements onto our first piece
will mark it alone by four and then make the cut will then test fit the piece in
place to make sure it fits you want to leave the molding a little long because
you want some spring pressure to push the molding in place we’re going to
spread some adhesive we’re then going to put the molding in place we’ll then
measure for our next piece will then transfer those measurements onto our
next piece of one module and then make our plan we then test fit our second
piece of place once if we have it fitted we’re then going to spread some adhesive
we’re gonna turn it up into place and then so we’re gonna take the measurements for
our next two pieces of molding we’ll make our cuts we’ll test fit them
in place when they fit and spread the adhesive onto them repeat the process on
the other side of the wall well then spin the molding up into place and then bail in place we now have an
outside corner to make and the best way to get a measurement for an outside
corner is to basically take your trim board hold it in place lock it with a
pencil we’re using a board long enough that we could make both sides of our cut
or take it over to our saw and make our cuts and we’ll return when a test fit it
in place see if we have what we need people get very intimidated by
multi-piece moment they’d rather just put down a piece of all-in-one you know
5/8 molding that already has the og cat installed but this is where the multi
piece comes in handy with all outside corners you’re gonna want to glue and in
this instance we are actually pre assembling our outside corner and then
installing in place we then put it in place by spreading some adhesive on it
and then put pin nails to hold it into the masonry wall let’s get started with
our base cap we’re pretty much gonna follow the same routine with the base
cap as we did with our 1 by 4 we’re going to start by transferring our
measurements onto our first piece of stock we’re then gonna cut it and then
we’ll test fit it in place we’re not gonna be 4 to 5 in those
inside corners because we’re gonna be coping those inside corners now see
because of the variances in the wall the the 1 by fours are stiff you can only
get so much flex out of it so you have these large gaps but the base cap is
much smaller and can flex more and we’re able to make up those gaps and hide
those large gaps see that so what we’ll do is we’ll pin
this in place so we’re on to our next piece of molding we’re going to need to
cope it inside corner we’re using our columns coping foot I suggest you check
out one of our previous videos how to cope and inside corner it’ll explain
exactly what we’re doing here and how to do it
coping and inside corner creates an extremely tight joint the reason why you
have to use files is because even though you’re you’re you’re using tools that
cost you know mitre saws eight hundred dollars the the jigsaw with the columns
corporate foot in the blade you’re talking about hundreds of dollars
you still need a good $10 $5 file to fine tune the cut okay there’s there’s
you could only get so close with those saws and you use the file okay to get
that that very last little bit okay away you know be the rest of that little bit
of meat that’s left to get up close to that profile
well test fit it in place now we’ll mark with our pencil the best way to actually
measure for size when making an outside corner is to hold the molding in place
and walk with your pencil we then take it over to the saw and then make our cut we put our molding in place test fit and
if everything looks good we’ll pin nail our base cap to our 1 by 4 so we’re
gonna move on to our next piece we’re gonna cope the left side inside corner
and just leave a straight end on the right side inside corner we’ll only need
to coat the one inside corner for the installation of this piece so as you can
see behind the door there we’re going to have one more inside corner to cope and
then we’ll finish off that that little piece with a returned edge if you were
going to do your inside corners you’re gonna cope them all you all you would
need is you would need like a $15 miter box and a $15 back saw okay and then you
could use a ten dollar coping saw have some files you could do no problem
copal your inside corners you know even need the expense of an $800 setup like
this it will take more time but the the end result will still be just as nice in
my opinion that’s I mean people have been installing intricate moldings for
centuries okay and there was no the wall back then once again you’re gonna want
to leave some spring pressure you always want your molding to be a little bit
bigger instead of a little bit smaller especially when you’re doing it inside
coke corners because the spring pressure of the molding is going to help put
pressure on that coped inside corner and close the gaps if there are any once
it’s in place in place with the pin nailer finally we’re dead ending our
molding we’ve we’ve coped the right hand side inside corner and now we have two
dead end our molding at the door jamb if you haven’t watched the video molding
return edge how-to dead and mold you’re gonna want to go check that out
now it’s gonna show you how to complete the molding installation at obstacles
such as this door we’re gonna measure for our quote around we’re using 3/4
quarter round we’re gonna put our full piece in there will be no cuts made to
this first piece once it’s fitted put a little adhesive and then pin in place we
measure for our next piece of quarter round and then we cope our inside corner
we’re actually using a dremel here to fine-tune our inside corner but if you
didn’t have a dremel you could always just continually lose your file we measure for the next piece of cord
around we we’ve cooked our inside corner once again this piece is different
because we’ll be dead ending with a return edge at the door I want to
reiterate something I said on previous videos the adhesive will be doing the
holding of the molding over time the pin nail or just a temporary way of holding
the molding in place until the adhesive dries that chemical that chemical bond
is far greater than the mechanical bond of nails pin nails and Brad’s so once
our three piece base molding was fully installed we went back and used wood
filler good quality wood filler to fill any holes and joints that needed it and
then since this molding is already primed we just applied a nice semi-gloss
white paint so we’re all finished up here but you’re probably just beginning
the hashtag very cool guys want to say good luck with your molding install if
you liked this video and it was helpful we hope you’ll give it a like leave your
comments below go on our Instagram leave your finished product pictures there
we’d love to see them if you dislike this video you know what to do and as
always thanks a lot and have a great day

Dereck Turner

18 thoughts on “How To Put Trim Up – Installing Baseboard Molding

  1. n3qdz says:

    Damn love the new intro and snappy music along with is happy voice over!! Damn, ramping up the production value!!!!!

  2. Феропонт Досифеев says:

    Professional video. No time wasted. I would put some water proof silicone glue in the cracks of the molding. The house I am living in has been under repair for the past few month. Any wood that was out side beams or fences were fixed, rock pathway was fixed, painting going on in a lot of places, the lights don't work in the house, ETC.

  3. Shawn Springall says:

    looks great fellas! really good video all the way around guys

  4. Macie Gore says:

    Awsome video, I watched this whilst walking home. What use are doing is amazing. Use are a channel but also a movement of people that come together when ever you post! Keep spreading joy!

  5. Justin Carter says:

    Should adhesive always be used when installing base? Or is just nailing sufficient enough?

  6. Renaissance Man says:

    Yo cuz! Two tips that you may find helpful. 1) Scrap the wood glue and buy some 2P10. Stands for Two parts ten seconds. No need to nail outside corners. 2) Bosch laser measuring tool. Cuts down on tape measure and dead accurate. I see you like new tools. I got mine recon at CPO BOSCH. It is still kicking. Do I get a free shirt now??

  7. Bill Zima says:

    Hey brother..try some CA glue on them return pieces. It's like welding wood. It's great for the hardwoods also like a cabinet crown and such. Don't get me wrong..I love my pin gun that glue does amazing jobs on them little pieces

  8. Roger D says:


  9. Joseph Leonardo says:

    Great job you know what your doing keep up the good work

  10. Veeps' Garage says:

    Awesome attention to detail on your trim work. Thanks for the tips.

  11. chvydrptop says:

    Most complete videos on baseboard molding, love them all. Quick question how are you guys getting the correct angle on the quarter round before dremeling? Are you 45 degree cutting and the manually eyeballing the round inside angle?

  12. Sam Axe says:

    those walls need some work…dings and scrapes

  13. Boo Boo says:

    You guys aren't really finish carpenters are you? You might impress ignorant youtubers, but you should really stick with what you know, if anything. Get a coping saw and some skill. If you need to touch your copes up with files, then you just aren't very good.

  14. Adam Witt says:

    Hi there, quick, and possibly stupid, question for you. Did you cope the 1×4 and if no, why not? I’m a beginner and just curious. Thank you for the how to videos, i think you guys are doing a great job and I really appreciate all the work you’re putting in on the quality videos.

  15. Ralph DiCecca says:

    Nice vid, learning a lot from you

  16. nina wade says:

    Very nice

  17. Tim Happy says:

    I'm from the Midwest been in Arizona for ten years now. I bet the haters live here. It's sad most trim Carpenters here run around with a square and a cordless circular saw lol. Then they exspect the painter to make it look good. It's so sad. To me it takes longer to do a crap job then to do it right.

  18. Greg Adler says:

    7:23 ????? Were the walls that far out of plumb or what? The top piece that coped together looks nice but those bottom flat pieces are seriously gapped at the top of their butt joint. How did you deal with that?

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