11 – Preparing Stock for the Arts & Crafts Table  (Part 2 of 4)

11 – Preparing Stock for the Arts & Crafts Table (Part 2 of 4)


(upbeat music) Marc: The first thing I’m going to work on today is the legs, I’ve
got this 10 foot piece of 8/4 alder that’s
about seven inches wide. It’ll be perfect we can get two legs out of each cut by cutting it in half, but in order to start working with this I’ve really got to cut it down. It’s way too big and just too heavy. So, I usually use my circular
saw for this type of task. You want to make sure
that when you cut this you don’t just let the fall off
literally fall to the ground. What that’s going to do is
actually pull off a large chunk of the wood at the end of the cut, because you haven’t had
a chance to actually sever the fibers before the weight of the piece pulls it down to the ground. The easiest thing that I find to do is to set up a couple of extra stands. I have my little roller stands here, and they’re set about an eighth of an inch below the bottom surface of the wood. So that when I cut this
it’ll drop but it’s only going to drop about an eighth of an inch, and that’s not enough to break
the wood and tear it out, but it is enough to support
it, and stop it from pinching the blade and stop
it from actually tearing out. It’s much safer and I get a
much cleaner cut that way. I’m going to probably
lop these off at about 30 inches giving me about
3/4 of an inch extra space so I could trim
them down to size later. All right so each one of these boards now represents one leg, we just
need to rip it to width, glue those two pieces together, and we’ll have the
thickness that we’re after for a nice sturdy mission style leg. What I’m going to do is actually mark the board at 3 1/4 inches. That extra 1/4 inch is going
to give me the breathing room that I need in case
there’s any error in my cut. I probably will screw
something up so it’s nice to know I’ve got an extra
1/4 inch to work with, but of course you need a board that’s wide enough to accommodate that excess, so keep that in mind
when you buy your lumber. I’m actually going to cut
this guy down on the band saw. I find that to be the easiest simplest way to deal with these large heavy timbers. If you use a table saw
it’s perfectly fine. I’d recommending jointing one edge first. Make sure the board sits
stable on a flat surface, and go ahead and push it through. Just be very careful, make sure you have your splitter installed on the table. You could use a circular
saw just make sure you’ve got a straightedge, and every thing’s clamped down and secure. You could even use a
jigsaw if you have one and you don’t have any
of these other tools you could certainly use
that to cut these down. But however you do it just be careful, and make sure you give
yourself a little bit more than three inches, because we’re going to need to be
able to plane everything down and smooth it out later on. Our finished thickness is three by three. Using the band saw I cut the rough leg stock down to 3 1/4 inches wide. Now I’ve just finished jointing
one face on each leg half, and it’s time to glue these guys together. (smooth jazz music) ♫(lyrics) Yeah baby put on ♫that glue that’s what I’m talking about ♫Put on lots of glue spread
that glue nice and thin ♫Yeah put those leg heads together ♫Tighten down those clamps ♫and some extra clamps
if you’re feeling saucy♫ So just a quick dose of
reality I was looking at all of my legs halves and I noticed one that has this really really big knot. That’s actually in fact, it’s
a pretty deep hole as well. So this could be a stability issue aside from the fact that it just looks ugly. I’m not going to be able to put this on my leg unless I can
do something with it. The key is to fill it
with epoxy so that it actually is stable, and then I’m going to actually face this to the inside. It’s going to be on the
inside of my leg joint, and we’ll never see it
but it’s still stable. Let me get some epoxy over here. I already had the resin I
just added the hardener, and incidentally these
little Dixie Cups were something really cool that Nicole got me. I think we got how many? 600 a bag of 600 for about five bucks that’s a pretty darn good deal and you don’t feel bad
about throwing them away. When I get this good
and mixed I’m going to pour the epoxy into the hole
give it a chance to seep in, and I’m going to let this sit overnight. Tomorrow I’ll clean it
up make sure it’s nice and flat, flush with the surface, that should be enough and then I can glue my leg together, problem solved. Okay, and I was about
to go in the house for the night and let my epoxy dry overnight, and then I realized
uhoh my hole does go all the way through, and my
epoxy is leaking oopsie. Generally what I like to do is just use tape, blue tape is fine. If you’ve got regular masking tape you can use that too, but just
plug up the hole now that I’ve wasted epoxy, it’s all good. That should be good enough
shh don’t tell anybody. After six to eight hours I
remove the legs from the clamps. Now I forgot to remove the glue before it set up so now I’m paying the price. Since these legs still have
a lot of extra stock I’m not concerned about the damage
I’m doing with the scraper. But removing the dried
glue is an essential step to keeping my jointer and
planer blades in good shape. I use a pencil to place
some indicator marks on one side, and then I joint that face. You might notice throughout this video that I’m wearing a pair of gloves. Normally I do not condone
wearing gloves in the shop, but in my opinion a
pair of cold bare hands is much more dangerous than
a pair of gloved warm hands. But if you do any work
with the drill press or any tool that requires close encounters with the business end of the tool, I recommend taking off the gloves. After one face is jointed
nice and flat I turn the leg 90 degrees and
joint the adjoining face. Be sure to place the previously jointed face against the fence. Three to four passes should do the trick. Next I use the planer
to square up the leg, and make the remaining
faces flat and parallel. Once the leg is square
I run it through the planer once on one side, then once again on the adjacent face before lowering the cutter head for the next cut. This ensures that my leg stays square. I use my miter saw to
cut the legs to length. I start by attaching a zero clearance auxiliary fence using a scrap piece of plywood and double stick tape. This will ensure a tear out free cut. Before taking any measurements I clean up one end of each leg. I then place a stop lock 29
1/4 inches away from the blade. Placing the freshly cut
ends against the stop lock I cut each let to the
exact length of 29 1/4 inches. Now you can see here I’ve selected all of my boards for the table top. Everything looks good,
I like the way the grain looks together, and what I’d like to do is gang them up clamp them together, and then actually cut
them at about 73 inches. I’m giving myself about an
extra inch just for error and things that I may
confront, problems I may have. Now it’s a good idea
if you have extra-long boards to move them left
or right whichever way necessary to avoid any
flaws, any knots or anything. I got a big knot on this side
so I just push my board over a little bit more so that
when I actually cut these down we’re going to get
that knot out of there. So a few different ways
you can approach this, again you could always
use something like a jigsaw and just zip across
and trim each piece. You could do each piece
individually on the table saw with a miter
sled or a crosscut sled, and if you have a sliding
compound miter saw you could just zip them off that way too. Unfortunately, I just
have a 10 inches compound miter saw so I can’t
actually clip these down. Each board’s about six
or seven inches wide. One really cool option, I don’t know if you guys have ever seen these. This is a clamp and tool
guide it’s basically got a built in clamp, and it’s a
straightedge at the same time. So you space it for your work, set it up, it was a little bit
short there, bring this little lever down and boom you’ve actually got your pieces clamped together, and you’ve got a beautiful
straightedge right there. So you could take your circular saw or even a jigsaw and
get a nice straight cut. The system that I prefer
to use which is a nice luxury to have is Festool
Circular Saw System. Doesn’t require any clamping,
you essentially lay it down. This edge marks exactly where
the blade’s going to cut, and that’s what I’ll
demonstrate right now. I use saw horses to catch the boards as they fall well most of the boards. (table saw whirring) I like to double check and
make sure I have enough width. I give myself about four extra inches. Now when doing a wide tabletop like this you are almost going
to confront this issue. That’s how to joint this
face, how to flatten the face without cutting it down to strips that are small enough
to fit on our jointer. I’ve only got a six inch
jointer so if these are over six I’m going to
waste a lot of material, or I’m going to have to
do a lot of gluing back together when it’s all said and done. So for me the best thing to do when you’re at the lumber store pick
the flattest straightest boards possible, and then this way when we get them back to the shop we can actually avoid using
the jointer altogether, and just pass these a couple times through the planer and get a relatively
flat board out of it. When we join everything
together if there’s a little hump here or
there we can pull it down with a clamp, and if
anything persists even after the glue up at
that point we could just sand everything nice and flat. If you’re good with hand planes you could do that method as well. I give the boards a few passes on each side to clean up each face. Since I want the top to be as
thick as possible once each of my boards has two clean
faces I stop planing. After planing we head to the jointing. Jointing extra-long boards
can be pretty tricky. So I like to break up the
process into three steps. First I establish a
nice stable edge that’s pretty close to 90 degrees, one or two passes up against the
fence does the trick. Now that I have a nice
stable edge that won’t rock too much I joint
the board deliberately away from the fence so that I can focus on my downward pressure and balance. I find that I get a much
straighter edge this way. Then take my last pass
right up against the fence just to ensure a
perfect 90 degree edge. I finish up by making sure
the edge is perfectly square. After jointing I clean up the
last edge at the table saw. I only remove the material that’s required to clean up the edge no more no less. (twangy music)

Dereck Turner

5 thoughts on “11 – Preparing Stock for the Arts & Crafts Table (Part 2 of 4)

  1. Acti Props says:

    The "lost episodes"

  2. Anthony Hall says:

    Thanks for adding the vid. Was wondering where all you Festool power tools were until I read the description about this being a 2007 video. Curious, which double sided tape do you recommend? I didn't see it linked in your Store page.

  3. The Wood Whisperer says:

    It's usually sold as "turner's tape" at places like Rockler and Woodcraft.

  4. wilfried vanhees says:

    Thanks for posting the "missing" videos.
    I started watching a few year ago and was always curious what happened with and was on the missing videos.
    I had some ideas:
    I couldn't count right
    Did they fell of an edge.
    You were hacked
    You looked bad and censored them
    They were censored !!!
    Pfff, glad this is solved.

  5. All My Hobbies says:

    How about a radial arm saw to make the cross cuts.

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